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Trastevere
is rione XIII of Rome, on the west bank of the Tiber,
south of Vatican City. Its name comes from the Latin
trans Tiberim, meaning literally "beyond the Tiber".
The correct pronunciation is "tras-TEH-ve-ray", with
the accent on the second syllable. Its logo is a
golden head of a lion on a red background, the
meaning of which is uncertain. To the north,
Trastevere borders on to the XIV rione, Borgo.
History
In Rome's Regal period (753-509 BC), the area across
the Tiber belonged to the hostile Etruscans: the
Romans named it Ripa Etrusca (Etruscan bank). Rome
conquered it to gain control of and access to the
river from both banks, but was not interested in
building on that side of the river. In fact, the
only connection between Trastevere and the rest of
the city was a small wooden bridge called the Pons
Sublicius (Latin: "bridge built on piles").
By the time of the Republic c. 509 BC, the number of
sailors and fishermen making a living from the river
had increased, and many had taken up residence in
Trastevere. Immigrants from the East also settled
there, mainly Jews and Syrians. The area began to be
considered part of the city under Augustus, who
divided Rome into 14 regions (regiones in Latin);
modern Trastevere was the XIV and was called Trans
Tiberim.
The area really became part of the city under
Aurelian (270275), who made larger protecting walls
to include Trastevere and the Vatican hill. With the
wealth of the Imperial Age, several important
figures decided to build their villae in Trastevere,
including Clodia, (Catullus' "friend") and Julius
Caesar (his garden villa, the Horti Caesaris). The
regio included two of the most ancient churches in
Rome, the Titulus Callixti, later called the
Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere, and the
Titulus Cecilae, Santa Cecilia in Trastevere.
In the Middle Ages Trastevere had narrow, winding,
irregular streets; moreover, because of the mignani
(structures on the front of buildings) there was no
space for carriages to pass. At the end of the 1400s
these mignani were removed. Nevertheless, Trastevere
remained a maze of narrow streets. There was a
strong contrast between the large, opulent houses of
the upper classes and the small, dilapidated houses
of the poor. The streets had no pavement until the
time of Sixtus IV at the end of the 1400s. At first
bricks were used, but these were later replaced by
sampietrini (cobble stones), which were more
suitable for carriages. Thanks to its partial
isolation (it was "beyond the Tiber") and to the
fact that it its population had been multicultural
since the ancient Roman period, the inhabitants of
Trastevere, called Trasteverini, developed a culture
of their own. In 1744 Benedict XIV modified the
borders of the rioni, giving Trastevere its modern
limits.
Modern-day
Trastevere
Nowadays,
Trastevere maintains its character thanks to its
narrow cobbled streets lined by medieval houses. At
night, both natives and tourists alike flock to its
many pubs and restaurants. However, much of the
original character of Trastevere remains. The area
is also home to John Cabot University, a private
American University, the American Academy in Rome,
and the Rome campus of the Thomas More College of
Liberal Arts, the Canadian University of Waterloo
School of Architecture (between the months of
September and December), and the American Pratt
Institute School of Architecture therefore serving
as home to an international student body.
The unique character of this neighborhood has
attracted artists, foreign expats, and many famous
people. In the sixties and seventies, the American
musicians/composers Frederic Rzewski and Richard
Teitelbaum, of the group Musica Elettronica Viva,
lived in Via della Luce. Sergio Leone, the director
of Spaghetti Westerns, grew up in Viale Glorioso (there
is a marble plaque to his memory on the wall of the
apartment building), and went to a Catholic private
school in the neighborhood. Ennio Morricone, the
film music composer, went to the same school, and
for one year was in the same class as Sergio Leone.
See
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Santa Maria in
Trastevere, Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere, +39
06 581 4802. One of the oldest churches in the
city. The nave is lined with a mismatched
collection of columns taken from ancient Roman
buildings. The apse is covered in gold mosaics
from the 13th century, arguably the finest
mosaics in the city. Impressive mosaics also on
the front.
Church of Santa
Cecilia. Very ornately done and beautiful
inside, but don't expect any information in
English. All information panels are only in
Italian. It's still a beautiful site though even
if you don't read Italian.
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Isola Tiberina. This
is the island located in the middle of the Tiber
River (Il Fiume Tevere) that separates Central
Rome and Trastevere. It boasts both a major
hospital, called Fatebenefratelli, and a small
synagogue that was secretly used in the Second
World War when Rome's main synagogue nearby was
closed down. It also has a cafι and gelateria on
the Rome side. It can be a nice alternative to
getting to and from Trastevere if crossing the
heavily trafficked Ponte Garibaldi ever gets
old. Be sure to get photos from Garibaldi though
as Isola Tiberina truly is beautiful.
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Villa Farnesina, Via
della Lungara 230 (on the northern edge of
Trastevere), ☎ +39 6 68027268. 09,00-13.00 Mon-Sat.Delightful Renaissance house that was
built by a rich banker from Siena, Agostino
Chigi. In 1577 it was bought by the Farnese
family and has since been known as Villa
Farnesina. At one time there were plans by
Michelangelo to build a bridge over the river to
connect the villa with Palazzo Farnese on the
other side. You can tour several beautiful rooms
that are all decorated with frescoes, including
some by Raphael. Particularly entertaining is
the Loggia of Cupid and Psyche, the former
entrance hall, in which nearly every person
represented is without clothes. 5.
Botanical Gardens, Largo
Cristina di Svezia, 24 (Northwest edge of
Trastever8bsp;Saturday 9am-6:30pm, 5.30 in Winter.
Closed in August. This garden was originally
established in 1883. It has over 3500 species of
plants and includes a "Scent-and-Touch" garden
for those who are visually impaired.
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San Francesco a
Ripa, Piazza S.Francesco d'Assisi (South side of
Trastevere). Named after St. Francis of Assisi,
who stayed nearby. Inside the Paluzzi-Albertoni
chapel is one of Berninis masterpieces, the
statue of the Blessed Ludovica Albertoni. The
column in front of the church comes from the
ruins of Veii.
 The Janiculum
l Gianicolo (Janiculum
Hill), (Can be reached by climbing Via Garibaldi
from Trastevere. Go right, through the gates,
into the Passegiata di Gianicolo in order to
reach the viewpoint at Piazza Garibaldi.). This
is not, contrary to popular belief, one of the
original seven hills that Rome was founded on.
It is the second highest after Monte Mario,
though, and offers incredible panoramic views of
the city as long as the authorities remember to
prune the trees on the hillside. On the other
side of the piazza there is also a nice view of
the dome of St. Peter's. The Piazza and the
street leading up the hill are dedicated to
Giuseppe Garibaldi who led Italian troops
against the French here in 1849. There are also
several commemorative statues.
San Pietro in
Montorio, (On the second corner of the windy Via
Garibaldi.). This church, which was commissioned
by Ferdinand and Isabella of Spain, marks the
point where, according to tradition, St. Peter
was crucified. Particularly interesting for
Irish visitors as it contains the graves of
three Gaelic Chiefs who fled Ireland in 1607.
The Tempietto,
(in the grounds of San Pietro in Montorio.). Designed
by Bramante to mark the spot of St. Peter's
martyrdom, this is considered a masterpiece of
Renaissance architecture. There is even a direct
copy of it in Paris.
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Fontana
dell'Acqua Paola, (On the left of Via Garibaldi
opposite San Pietro in Montorio.). This massive
early 17th Century Baroque fountain was built to
celebrate the re-opening of an old Roman
aqueduct. Water played an important role in this
area in Roman times as the grain was milled here
using water mills.
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Manfredi
Lighthouse, (after Piazza Garibaldi follow the
road down the hill in the direction of St.
Peter's.). Strange to see a lighthouse on top of
a hill. This was built in 1911 and was a gift to
the city from Italians living in Argentina. From
here you can continue down the hill, past Rome's
largest and Italy's most important children's
hospital, Bambino Gesu, eventually arriving at
the River Tiber close to the Vatican.
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Villa Pamphili,
(Via Garibaldi leads into Via Aurelia Antica at
Porta San Pancrazio. The park entrance is a
short distance after the beginning of Via
Aurelia). A large villa and 180 ha. park that is
a major recreation area for Romans, and a
popular spot for joggers. One unusual feature of
the grounds is the colony of coypus (swamp
beavers) around the lake. Natives of South
America these ones are descended from some who
wisely escaped from a fur farm. There are also
colonies by the Tiber.
Transportation
Trains (marked regionale, not the express to
Termini) from Leonardo da Vinci airport stop at
Trastevere Railway station. Then hop on tram n° 8
Tram n° 8 From
Piazza Argentina. This is a nice tram for the short
distance from close to the Pantheon to Trastevere
and Monteverde.
It runs frequently (3-5 minutes)
Night Bus n° 8
Bus n° H from
Stazione Termini (the main train station)
NB: Cars of
non-residents of Trastevere are not permitted always to
park there after dark so you'll have to park close
and walk if you're going by car. Beware that on
weekends or on any warm evening parking can involve
driving round in circles for a long time looking for
a place.
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